Engine rebuild pt1...

With a clean cloth and some degrease solution I gave the block a good wipe down, removed any over-paint from the flanges.

Using STP oil I coated the big end shells and dropped the crank in to place, next the thrust washers again giving everything a good coat of oil. On with end caps and hand tighten at this point.

Checking the end-float of the crank came in just over half way between of the recommended tolerance.

Next the pistons, checking the ring gaps where at 180 deg to each other, I used a ring clamp to compress them and trapped the first one in. Again covering the small end shells with oil and hand tighten them - after each piston was attached I used the crank pulley to help rotated the crank.

STP oil is very sticky stuff and crank is fairly stiff to rotate - it's also very cold today and trying to snow again!

4.5 hrs

New parts...

Received a box of goodies - shells, thrush washers, top and bottom gaskets - VAT free offer from Rimmers.

Engine breakdown... pt12

Removing the pistons next, I started by removing the remaining big end caps and shells, the condition of these shells are similar to the others already removed.

Cleaning the bores with a clean rag to minimise any damage to the piston rings I pushed the first piston up and out and placing into a numbered box containers I had set-up earlier.

Containing with the other three being careful not to let the rings catch on anything, the rings all look fine with plenty of spring in them and the bores look fine too. I will need to borrow some of my fathers measuring tools to check them properly.

One thing we did last time when we rebuilt the engine, we number the con rods and caps, also R for right hand side.

2hrs

Checking shell sizes...

Quick call today to Rimmer Bros to double check I had the right sizes for ordering new big end and main bearing shells.

The block and crank was a exchange units and my 1985 invoice indicated +0.20, but the shells had 010 and 040 marked on them. He confirmed I would need the sizes as marked on shells and the invoice was only a guide to say it had been reground!

Interestedly a re-ground block and crank will cost over £470 today.

Engine breakdown... pt10

So time to have a look at the main bearing and big end shells. These will be replaced as sitting in old oil the 24 years will not have been good.

The block and crank have no signs of damage other than some discolouring which should clean up when I have it out.

The shells have sign of wear and discolouring due to oil again. The wear is not too bad on the couple I've removed so far - at the end of the day shell wear is preferred to the crank or block being damaged.

A new sets of shells will be fitted on the rebuild - I do need the check the sizes as this block and crank was a exchange units and would have been both reground.

2hrs