Other parts like disks, dampers, springs, bump stops and gaiters will be bought later due financial pressured, It's hard to justified spending money on the car - food on the table comings first.
10 hrs
This is my record of the restoration of my 1977 Triumph TR7, I bought the car in 1983 for £1500. Over the four years of driving it I had got married, moved to a 110 year old cottage in need of renovation and given a new company car. The TR was parked in the garage (1987) at the end of the garden. I always joked saying "that one day I put it back on the road". Twenty-four years later (Nov 2011) that day has arrived - wish me luck.
Showing posts with label Tie rod lever. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tie rod lever. Show all posts
Thursday, September 6, 2012
Paint job...
Over the past couple weeks while doing some the other jobs I've been cleaning and painting the front suspension parts for refitting when replacement ball joints and track rod ends are ordered.
Other parts like disks, dampers, springs, bump stops and gaiters will be bought later due financial pressured, It's hard to justified spending money on the car - food on the table comings first.
10 hrs
Other parts like disks, dampers, springs, bump stops and gaiters will be bought later due financial pressured, It's hard to justified spending money on the car - food on the table comings first.
10 hrs
Friday, August 31, 2012
Track rod ends...
While the other front suspension parts are waiting for a second coat of paint, I started on the track rod ends, lower steering shaft and rack.
I was having a real problem with the off side track rod end – as it was only attached to the tie rod lever, I couldn't get a good grip on it to undone the nut. After 45 minutes of trying everything I decided that if I remove the whole steering rack I could put it in the vice.
So I started by removing the 2 bolts on the lower steering knuckles and the 4 bolts holding the rack to the front subframe. By sliding the rack over to the near side and folding down the lower steering shaft I managed to pull it out through the off side gap.
With the compete rack on the bench I removed the lower steering shaft and the near side track rod end.
The off side rod end which I had been having so much trouble with still wouldn't undone, even trying some heat - it wouldn't move!
Looks like I may need to cut this one off – but first I will soak it over night with old friend WD-40.
3.5 hrs
I was having a real problem with the off side track rod end – as it was only attached to the tie rod lever, I couldn't get a good grip on it to undone the nut. After 45 minutes of trying everything I decided that if I remove the whole steering rack I could put it in the vice.
So I started by removing the 2 bolts on the lower steering knuckles and the 4 bolts holding the rack to the front subframe. By sliding the rack over to the near side and folding down the lower steering shaft I managed to pull it out through the off side gap.
With the compete rack on the bench I removed the lower steering shaft and the near side track rod end.
The off side rod end which I had been having so much trouble with still wouldn't undone, even trying some heat - it wouldn't move!
Looks like I may need to cut this one off – but first I will soak it over night with old friend WD-40.
3.5 hrs
Monday, August 20, 2012
Front suspension removal...
I started by giving all the parts a good dose of WD40 to loosen everything up!
First I removed the nuts from the ends of the Anti roll bar, then the Tie rod lever allowing access to the Ball joint split pin and nut. Refitting the 'castle' head nut upside down and giving it a good hit to free from the strut leg.
Then removing the bolt from Track arm on the subframe, then the three nuts holding the suspension to the turret I carefully lifting the assembly away from the car. I repeated this for the other side.
Stripping down strut leg started with a ring around to see if I could borrow a spring compressor tool – but no luck.
A very good and old (that's number of years I've know him!) friend Nick came to my rescue with the idea to using straps, as the road spring are 35 years old and knackered we could compress them using straps he had – which we did.
I will need to buy the right tool when fitting the uprated spring.
I then started cleaning up some of the parts for painting.
6 hrs
First I removed the nuts from the ends of the Anti roll bar, then the Tie rod lever allowing access to the Ball joint split pin and nut. Refitting the 'castle' head nut upside down and giving it a good hit to free from the strut leg.
Then removing the bolt from Track arm on the subframe, then the three nuts holding the suspension to the turret I carefully lifting the assembly away from the car. I repeated this for the other side.
Stripping down strut leg started with a ring around to see if I could borrow a spring compressor tool – but no luck.
A very good and old (that's number of years I've know him!) friend Nick came to my rescue with the idea to using straps, as the road spring are 35 years old and knackered we could compress them using straps he had – which we did.
I will need to buy the right tool when fitting the uprated spring.
I then started cleaning up some of the parts for painting.
6 hrs
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