Driver's door repair pt1...

Repair and restore maybe a better heading. Years ago I like the red lights on the Rover's door when they opened - I had fitted them to the my 7. Years later because I didn't seal or even paint the holes I had made - you guessed it(!) they are rusty.

Also the usual rust is also showing along the door skin at the bottom, after removing the paint for the lower half and having a dig around inside the rust has been eating away under the sound proofing at the lower edge.

The return flap at the door skin was also rusting - I started removing the first 25mm of the sound proofing from inside the door to see how far the rust had travelled.

After marked out the area and using a cutting disc, I cut and folded back the flap. I then treated the inside and outside areas with Kurust.

I've cut some new metal and patches the red light hole - both will need bending and swaging before welding.  

4hrs

Other surface rust...

While watching paint dry literally! I started on some of the other surface rust around the rear screen and top deck, the corner of the boot lid opening and rear lamp assembly.

Cleaning off any rust with wire bush in the drill and then digging out any old seam sealer. Then I treated it with my good friend Mr Kurust.

1.5 hrs

Floor panel repaired...

When removing carpeting and sound proofing I found a couple of some rust holes in the drivers floor panel.

Using a card template I cut out the patch and folded and hammered into shape. After treating the area with Kurust and seam sealer I welded it in place and finished off with a coat primer to seal until I paint white later when the new sill is fitted.

3hrs

Front drivers floor panel...

In preparation of removing the sill I raised the car up on axle stands and ramps to a good working height. Removed some of the carpet and rear bulkhead trim.

The sound insulation pad on the floor panel was cracked around large plug - I started digging around to find under pad was rusty, after cleaning off all the insulation I found a small hole in the corner – looks like were the seam sealer was used now has surface rusted along the joints - well done Triumph!

The inner sill was cover with 37 years contact adhesive from the carpet so with some white spirit I spent about hour and half cleaning it back to white paint.

I cleaned out the seam sealer along the bottom of the inner sill joint which with the rusty floor panel I will treat the Hammerite Kurust before cutting out the section that needs repairing.

I also cut out some new plug plates including one for the spare wheel well.

6hrs

Water pipe...

After removing and cleaning the donor water pipe which connects the heater to the water pump via the inlet manifold (under the carbs). I prepped it with Kurust and then a coat of black satin.

The following photos show some the corrosion on my old pipe.

2hrs

Donor stripping...

Two parts I wanted off the donor car - the water pipe from the heater to the water pump/inlet manifold and the water pump.

My water pipe is corroded with small pin holes around where the hoses finished - and the water pump that I had dropped smashing the impeller.

I started by removing the air filter box, fuel line, linkage and draining the water. Unbolted the inlet manifold with carbs in place, then stripped off the water pipe and removed the cover to the pump.

Another 12 vane pump which means I can use my cleaned and painted cover - my water pump just lifted out but this one didn't want to budge.

The workshop manual shows a special tool which screws into the top with a heavy weight and rod to slide and pull it out. So a bit like Blue Peter with some old stud, a weight and metal strips I fashioned my special tool. Worked like a dream.

I cleaned up the water pipe and gave it a coat of Kurust, the water pump is boxed in bubble wrap!

4hrs

Block paint...

With the weather a bit warmer today it was time to give the block a second coat. The first coat took a couple of days to dry in the colder temperatures.

The Kurust had done a good job sealing and giving me a great surface to paint, areas of over-paint I will clear off with a sharp blade.

2 hrs

Engine block blue rinse...

With the block cleaned and degreased I gave it a couple of coats of Hammerite Kurust to convert the surface rust and seal it for the black engine enamel. As you can see from the photos the Kurust goes through many colour changes ending up a dark blue/black.

It's too cold today for the engine enamel so that will have to wait for a warmer day.

1 hr

Transmission tunnel...

With the gearbox removed I can get on and finish the floorpan. Started by drilling out the pop rivets holding the sound insulation to the transmission tunnel. This also allowed me to remove the old brake pipe that runs along the prop shaft.

After a cleaning off the grease/oil and rubbing down some surface rust with wire wool, I then gave the area a coat of Hammerite Kurust to seal.

1 hr

A treat for rust...

So with all the under seal removed and the rusty areas exposed around the front wheel arch, I treated it all to nice coat of Hammerite Kurust.

30 mins

Body rust treatment...

Spent a couple hours going around the car cleaning rusty areas and treating it Hammerite Kurust – especially around the front lower panel which was behind the spoiler.

2hrs

Rear brake drum...

With the brake drums removed from the car, I wired brushed the surface rust off and cleaned the pad faces with wet & dry. Then using Hammerite's Kurust I coated the inside and inside surfaces.

I need to get some high temperature paint to finish off the top coat – black or racing boy red?

30 mins