Driver's door repair pt2...

Using the hole in the door skin as a guide I marked up the new metal for cuting, folding and swage lines. We swaged the top and sides, I than cut the lower corners out the allow it to fold around the lower edge.

I folded the lower edge 90˚ and clamped it into place. We needed to a different combination of arms on the welder due to the access holes.

We started along the face of the lower edge and then the top edge as far as we could reached. I will need to finish it off with the mig welder.

I then flatten the lower edge flange using a hammer and dolly. We also patched the hole on the end from the old removed red door light.

Again a far amount of finishing to do, but good metal to work with.

2hrs

Driver's door repair pt1...

Repair and restore maybe a better heading. Years ago I like the red lights on the Rover's door when they opened - I had fitted them to the my 7. Years later because I didn't seal or even paint the holes I had made - you guessed it(!) they are rusty.

Also the usual rust is also showing along the door skin at the bottom, after removing the paint for the lower half and having a dig around inside the rust has been eating away under the sound proofing at the lower edge.

The return flap at the door skin was also rusting - I started removing the first 25mm of the sound proofing from inside the door to see how far the rust had travelled.

After marked out the area and using a cutting disc, I cut and folded back the flap. I then treated the inside and outside areas with Kurust.

I've cut some new metal and patches the red light hole - both will need bending and swaging before welding.  

4hrs