Engine breakdown... pt12

Removing the pistons next, I started by removing the remaining big end caps and shells, the condition of these shells are similar to the others already removed.

Cleaning the bores with a clean rag to minimise any damage to the piston rings I pushed the first piston up and out and placing into a numbered box containers I had set-up earlier.

Containing with the other three being careful not to let the rings catch on anything, the rings all look fine with plenty of spring in them and the bores look fine too. I will need to borrow some of my fathers measuring tools to check them properly.

One thing we did last time when we rebuilt the engine, we number the con rods and caps, also R for right hand side.

2hrs

Reseat the valves...

Using a valve grinding stick, I start with some coarse paste to remove the build-up of carbon and muck around each valve seats. Some values would have been in an open position for more than 20 years.

Using the fine paste next to achieve a matt grey finish on the head and the valve face will ensure a tight seal.

1.5hrs

Decoking the head...

With the head stripped it was time to give it a good blow through - using my Karcher pressure washer in every hole removing any build-up and old antifreeze that had turned to sludge. Then with some degrease solution, fine wire wool and brass wire brush I de-coked the build up of carbon from the chambers.

While doing this a had the valves and springs in the ultrasonic cleaner. After 20 minutes the carbon around the valves had softened up allow me the gently sharp if off and a quick go with a wire brush in my drill to remove any remaining bits. One set at a time so they wouldn't get mixed up.

4hrs

 

Checking shell sizes...

Quick call today to Rimmer Bros to double check I had the right sizes for ordering new big end and main bearing shells.

The block and crank was a exchange units and my 1985 invoice indicated +0.20, but the shells had 010 and 040 marked on them. He confirmed I would need the sizes as marked on shells and the invoice was only a guide to say it had been reground!

Interestedly a re-ground block and crank will cost over £470 today.

Engine breakdown... pt11

Borrowing a valve spring compressor from Dick (many thanks) a member of my local Thames Valley TR Register Club. I removed the inlet and exhaust valves bagging them in pairs with the spring, collar and cone type collets.

The valves felt nice a tight in the guides and no signs of damage other than build up of carbon. Next stage to clean-up the head and re-seat the valves. 

1hr

Ultrasonic cleaner...

A new toy turned up today from China via eBay - 2L ultrasonic cleaner, 60w, 40KHz frequency, 0-80C heater and 1-99 minute timer.

40KHz is fairly low compared to commercial units but they come at a high price. So it will interesting how well it works on the oily and carburettor parts.

Cleaned my glasses very well!

Engine breakdown... pt10

So time to have a look at the main bearing and big end shells. These will be replaced as sitting in old oil the 24 years will not have been good.

The block and crank have no signs of damage other than some discolouring which should clean up when I have it out.

The shells have sign of wear and discolouring due to oil again. The wear is not too bad on the couple I've removed so far - at the end of the day shell wear is preferred to the crank or block being damaged.

A new sets of shells will be fitted on the rebuild - I do need the check the sizes as this block and crank was a exchange units and would have been both reground.

2hrs