Its been a while since my last reported but work, a holiday to the US and work again - I haven't had the time to work on the 7.
But, I have sold the donor car today which is going to a home where the 'auto axle' is helping in restoration of the first production Auto FHD TR7 ACG44A - I think she's done her duty for me and others, thank you!
This is my record of the restoration of my 1977 Triumph TR7, I bought the car in 1983 for £1500. Over the four years of driving it I had got married, moved to a 110 year old cottage in need of renovation and given a new company car. The TR was parked in the garage (1987) at the end of the garden. I always joked saying "that one day I put it back on the road". Twenty-four years later (Nov 2011) that day has arrived - wish me luck.
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Thursday, August 28, 2014
Rear parcel shelf pt1
Like most 7s the rear self vinyl has blown in the corners, and mine also has some small cutouts where I had fitted internal fog lights.
The donor cars self had completely blown across the 2 section compartment, so I decided to remove and recover this one as mine only has a couple of corners blown.
Started by removing the remaining vinyl. The pressed card construction is fairly wobbly and around the fixing holes the card had become distorted.
To add some strength and straighten the lower and top fixing edges, I used a couple of layers of glass fibre clamping in place while setting. After I cleaned up with sanding disk and removed any high points.
On the lower edge I used some body filler the flatten out a couple of depressions and then give it a coat of paint the seal it which should help when sticking the new vinyl.
I need to source some black vinyl covering with enough stretch to allow me into the corners.
4hrs
The donor cars self had completely blown across the 2 section compartment, so I decided to remove and recover this one as mine only has a couple of corners blown.
Started by removing the remaining vinyl. The pressed card construction is fairly wobbly and around the fixing holes the card had become distorted.
To add some strength and straighten the lower and top fixing edges, I used a couple of layers of glass fibre clamping in place while setting. After I cleaned up with sanding disk and removed any high points.
On the lower edge I used some body filler the flatten out a couple of depressions and then give it a coat of paint the seal it which should help when sticking the new vinyl.
I need to source some black vinyl covering with enough stretch to allow me into the corners.
4hrs
Monday, August 11, 2014
Header tank mod update...
One of the updated on the 7 is to replace the plastic expansion bottle with a later model header tank.
I found one on ebay with all fittings for £20 delivered. I will need to change the thermostat housing and get a later spec rad - hoping I can do recon exchange but get a newer spec.
Painted and cleaned up very nice - maybe too much brass, will see what it looks like when fitted.
Painted and cleaned up very nice - maybe too much brass, will see what it looks like when fitted.
3hrs
Friday, August 8, 2014
Front offside wing repair pt5...
So a first time for me... lead loading. Cleaned the surfaces with flux paste and started melting the lead sticks along the joint and over the spot welds - the first few inches I had more lead on the ground until I got the right melting point figured out.
Using a flat and half-round file I quickly removed the excess lead and started reshaping the edge.
Since these photos I've used a dual action sander and found that the spot weld will need body filling as the lead is too soft even using by hand a fine wet and dry paper unless its my skill level?
5hrs
Using a flat and half-round file I quickly removed the excess lead and started reshaping the edge.
Since these photos I've used a dual action sander and found that the spot weld will need body filling as the lead is too soft even using by hand a fine wet and dry paper unless its my skill level?
5hrs
Wednesday, July 23, 2014
Bit of a bargain...
So keeping my eye on ebay for parts, I recently spotted a near side inner wing with a starting price of £50. I paid £180 for the other side.
Place my bid and won it for £50!! with £30 petrol to collect what a bargain - a repair panel would cost me £75-£90.
I now have the option to replace the whole panel or cut sections for repair.
4hrs (collection)
Place my bid and won it for £50!! with £30 petrol to collect what a bargain - a repair panel would cost me £75-£90.
I now have the option to replace the whole panel or cut sections for repair.
4hrs (collection)
Wednesday, July 16, 2014
Driver's door repair pt2...
Using the hole in the door skin as a guide I marked up the new metal for cuting, folding and swage lines. We swaged the top and sides, I than cut the lower corners out the allow it to fold around the lower edge.
I folded the lower edge 90˚ and clamped it into place. We needed to a different combination of arms on the welder due to the access holes.
We started along the face of the lower edge and then the top edge as far as we could reached. I will need to finish it off with the mig welder.
I then flatten the lower edge flange using a hammer and dolly. We also patched the hole on the end from the old removed red door light.
Again a far amount of finishing to do, but good metal to work with.
2hrs
Front offside wing repair pt4...
Spot, spot, spot... a day out of the garage with parts that needed spot welding. Over to Dick's garage to use his welder.
Started by marking out where I needed the swages at the ends. We then starting at the centre point on the edge down towards the ends removing cleco's and clamping on the way to ensure a good contact.
With the front section done we repeated the process towards the back. After a break to the let the welder cool down and give our arms a rest - (it's bloody heavy!) we flipped the wing to see the overlap and welded along the flange edge.
Even thou there's still a far amount the finishing to do - the results look good.
4hrs
Started by marking out where I needed the swages at the ends. We then starting at the centre point on the edge down towards the ends removing cleco's and clamping on the way to ensure a good contact.
With the front section done we repeated the process towards the back. After a break to the let the welder cool down and give our arms a rest - (it's bloody heavy!) we flipped the wing to see the overlap and welded along the flange edge.
Even thou there's still a far amount the finishing to do - the results look good.
4hrs
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