Engine rebuild pt1...

With a clean cloth and some degrease solution I gave the block a good wipe down, removed any over-paint from the flanges.

Using STP oil I coated the big end shells and dropped the crank in to place, next the thrust washers again giving everything a good coat of oil. On with end caps and hand tighten at this point.

Checking the end-float of the crank came in just over half way between of the recommended tolerance.

Next the pistons, checking the ring gaps where at 180 deg to each other, I used a ring clamp to compress them and trapped the first one in. Again covering the small end shells with oil and hand tighten them - after each piston was attached I used the crank pulley to help rotated the crank.

STP oil is very sticky stuff and crank is fairly stiff to rotate - it's also very cold today and trying to snow again!

4.5 hrs

New oil pump required...

Now I've stripped and cleaned the oil pump and checking the clearances I'm of the mind to replace it, seems wise not to with all the work being done on the engine for it to fail because of a oil pressure problems.

I will have the donor car next week to look it too, but with 98,000 on the clock it could be worse. The seller has a folder of bills and history she looking for which may provide info on if its been replaced.

2hrs

Pick up arranged...

Next week after Easter the trailer is booked and my bother-in-law Steve with a tow-bar is ready for the pickup.

We will need to put some air in the tyres and hopefully the handbrake wasn't left on - forgot to check, the car should roll back on to the trailer.

Depending on if we can get the trailer in and up my driveway, we may need to drop it off at my parents who live just up the road - then try and get it started.

The reason it was off the road for the past six years was fuel coming from the tank area, the engine was running fine when feed direct. I bought 3m of 6mm tubing today with the idea of having a petrol can in the boot and running the tubing to the engine bay to allow me to drive the sort journey home - if not, pushing it!

Other carb bits cleaned...

With both carbs assembled but not setup, I've decided to get a service kit and replace the Waxstat jet with the new type after reading about the pros of not having a lump of wax which determines the fuel mix when hot.

All linkage, pipes and fixing are now cleaned and painted as required. New fuel lines and filter to buy.

4hrs

7 + 7 = Donor car found...

I've been looking for a donor car for a while now and finally found one - 1978 white auto with a black/red check interior (result!) which has been parked in a garage for the six years with a fuel leak problem.

It has a V5 and on Sorn and only £200 + pickup costs!

There has been lots of welding under the bonnet and all the usual rusty bits, but lots of good parts and trim.

Black and white...

You can easily see the difference with first carb reassembled - second carb now stripped and in the cleaner doing its stuff...

2hrs

Numbers: FZX 1242F, FZX 1242R for service kit

Ten pounds well spent!...

Turns out that the suspect ultrasonic cleaner wasn't Fairy Liquid after all – couple of hours in the cleaner at 45-50° heat did the job.

The body of the carb took the longest, after about hour I removed it and using a nylon brush I loosen some of the stubborn bits.

The heat makes a vast difference, previously I've allowed the fluid to heat itself i.e. the ultrasonic action would heat it but not to a high temperature.

Looking good - now for the other one.

3 hrs

Carburettor strip and clean...

With the inlet manifold nice and clean, time to tackle the carbs - twin SUs covered in thirty-six years of crap and grime.

Decided to get some "special" ultrasonic cleaner, 1ltr concentrated engine component formula - wasn't sure if I had just paid £10 for a litre of water and washing up liquid!

I started by taking these photos to remind me how they should look when putting back together – I have a pdf version of the workshop manual (on my useful links page), so print off the carb section pages and put them in a clear page file which I had already done for the engine rebuild.

I split the carbs and thought doing one at a time was a good idea, putting them into two containers marked left and right.

With the first one stripped off to the cleaner and the Fairy Liquid!

2hrs

Inlet manifold...

Next item in the parts box was the inlet manifold - removed the blanking plate, plug and non-return valve (brake servo) and power washed it.

After giving it a good soak in degrease and power washing all the waterways. I noticed on the inlet hole on the carb side was a small lip where the original machining hadn't gone deep enough. So with a half round file I removed it to allow better flow (maybe?).

Then I finished off with a couple of coats of high temp aluminium paint.

3hrs

Camshaft cover paint...

Decided on silver for the cover with black "Triumph" wording, cap and sleeve nuts. Two coats of silver and looking good.

Next, I just need a steady hand for the lettering...

1hr

Engine stand...

Been busy with work and visiting universities with my son over the last couple of weeks, so only spent the odd hours getting items ready for the rebuild.

I give the sump pan its first coat of paint which now rubbed down for second when weather warms up.

Striped and cleaned oil pump and filter bowl which has had a first coat of paint.

Also clean and prepped some parts for blasting - engine/gearbox mounting brackets, gearbox crossmember, tie bar and other odd items.

Also fixed the engine on to the stand - lifted into place easily and with ability to the spin the engine allows good access.

6hrs